Experience irritation, dryness after retinol use? 5 mistakes to avoid when incorporating it in your routine

Retinol, the powerhouse ingredient celebrated for its skin-renewing properties, has become a staple in skincare routines worldwide. However, despite its numerous benefits, using retinol requires a delicate balance and a keen understanding of its application. Dr Supriya (@dermashrine), a dermatologist and cosmetologist, shared five mistakes to avoid when incorporating retinol into your skincare regimen.

1. Using retinol during the day

Retinol is photosensitive, meaning it breaks down when exposed to sunlight. Therefore, Dr DM Mahajan, senior consultant dermatologist at Indraprastha Apollo Hospitals, recommends applying retinol exclusively at night. “Using it during the day leaves (the skin) at risk of damage and irritation from UV rays and wear from environmental pollutants. Retinol applied before bedtime allows it to work its magic of stimulating collagen production and cell turnover during the night, which is the ideal time for skin restoration and repair,” he told indianexpress.com.

2. Not applying sunscreen after using retinol

Using retinol requires a delicate balance and a keen understanding of its application. (Source: Freepik)

Following retinol application, diligent sunscreen use the next day is crucial. Dr Mahajan explained that retinol, by increasing cell turnover and collagen production, makes the skin more vulnerable and thin. Thus, applying sunscreen the next day after using retinol protects the renewed skin. “Sunscreen creates a protective barrier to filter out the sun’s harmful UV rays that can undo retinol’s rejuvenating overnight work,” he added.

He advises consistent use of at least SPF 30 to allow the retinol to work optimally over time to reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

3. Large amount of retinol use

When it comes to retinol, less is often more. “Start with a pea-sized amount for the entire face to prevent irritation and build tolerance gradually,” Dr Mahajan cautions.

Additionally, he points out that when first starting out with retinol, it is best to use a low concentration around 0.25 to 0.5 percent and apply it only 2-3 nights per week. “As the skin adjusts over a few weeks, gradually increase frequency to every other night, then eventually every night if tolerated.”

According to Dr Mahajan, the maximum recommended nightly use concentration is up to 1 percent. “Exceeding this does not provide additional benefits; however, it does increase the risk of redness, peeling, dryness, and sensitivity.”

 

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4. Applying retinol to damp skin

Retinol should not be used on damp skin, said Dr Mahajan, as it can amplify its intensity, leaving the skin sensitive and vulnerable. “When applied to damp skin, excess moisture causes enhanced penetration, leading the retinol to be absorbed deeper and faster. This disrupts the skin barrier and leads to negative side effects,” he added.

For optimal use, Dr Mahajan suggests cleansing the face and waiting until it is completely dry before applying a pea-sized amount of retinol. “Using it on dry skin allows controlled penetration, preventing over-exposure while still reaping retinol’s smoothing, anti-aging skin benefits.”

5. Not using moisturiser

To mitigate potential dryness and irritation associated with retinol use, Dr Mahajan recommends sandwiching retinol between layers of moisturiser, as it can provide a protective barrier and help maintain skin hydration. When used alone, retinol can cause flaking, peeling, redness, and sensitivity.

“Incorporating retinol into your routine requires patience and diligence. Take it slowly and listen to your skin,” Dr Mahajan concluded.

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