From Egypt to Mohenjodaro and now modern India, ajrakh has a history worth remembering

Deep in the heart of India’s Kutch region, a tradition of block printing a textile — ajrakh — famous for its intricate patterns and deep indigo hue has been passed down through generations for centuries.

“Ajrakh is more than just a fabric; it is a cultural symbol, deeply entangled with the lives of the Kutch region,” according to Professor John Varghese from the School of Fashion at the World University of Design, Sonipat.

Whether ajrakh originated in the Egyptian or Indus Valley Civilisation is still being debated. But Gujarat-printed ajrakh was excavated from Al-Fostat, near old Cairo in Egypt, and was showcased at the ‘India and the World’ exhibit at Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, Mumbai, from November 11, 2017, to February 18, 2018. The priest-king of Mohenjodaro is also depicted wearing what is believed to be an early form of ajrakh, explained J Usha Rani, associate professor of fashion and textiles at Pearl Academy, Bengaluru.

The priest king’s bust excavated from Mohenjodaro in 1927 (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

The etymology of the word ajrakh is contested, but the most widely accepted origin is from the Arabic word “azrak,” meaning azure or blue, referencing the indigo dyes used in the fabric, a practice that can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, with artifacts from Mohenjodaro dating as far back as 3000 BC, Varghese said.

The re-emergence of this craft on the Indian mainland is linked to the migration of the Khatri community under the patronage of Kutch ruler Rao Bharmalji around 400 years ago, said Usha.

“Many towns and villages with ajrakh printers and craftsmen provided the complete ecosystem for this craft to thrive. By the 16th century, the craft of printed textiles became a global fashion phenomenon. The British interest, with the East India Company beginning to import Ajrakh to the Western world, marked a significant chapter,” she explained.

 

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How is Ajrakh made?

It is an ancient, labour-intensive hand-block printing process that involves multiple stages, said Avani Karan Chandan, co-founder of homegrown brand The House of Ara. Here are the steps involved:

Saaj: The unfinished fabric is washed to remove any starch or finish on the fabric. The cloth is soaked in a solution of camel dung, soda ash and castor oil, wrung and kept overnight. It is then semi-dried in the sun. This process of soaking and drying is repeated seven to eight times. Then, a solution of myrobalan, which acts as a mordant for the dyeing process, is used to wash the fabric with.

Gach: At this stage, a mixture of alum, clay, and gum arabic is applied to the cloth, and sawdust or powdered cow dung is sprinkled over the printed area to avoid smudging. The cloth is then left to dry naturally over two to three days.

Rang: Various colours are applied by dipping and boiling the cloth in different natural ingredients: alizarine (red colour), madder root or “Manjishtha” (orange colour), henna (olive colour), and rhubarb root (pale brown colour).

Vichharnu: Thorough washing of cloth is done to remove resist mix and excess dye colour.

The entire process of making ajrakh textiles can take anywhere from one to three weeks, depending on the intricacy of the design and the number of colours used. The result is more than just a garment—it’s a work of art, reflecting the skill of its creator and the spirit of centuries past.

Sejal Kamdar, a Kutchi designer specialising in ajrakh, said, “It takes 20 to 60 hours to produce just one meter of ajrakh fabric.” She also noted that traditional ajrakh featured two or three colours, whereas modern variations can include up to seven colours, including green, blue, black, and white.

 

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Differentiating real from fake ajrakh

According to Chandan, real ajrakh can be identified by its rich, earthy tones and the unmistakable smell of natural dyes.

The slight imperfections in the fabric due to the hand-blocking process, are key indicators of its authenticity. These minor inconsistencies in pattern or colour exhibit the handcrafted nature of the textile.

Kamdar advised consumers to examine the reverse side of the fabric closely. In authentic ajrakh, the design on the back is as vibrant as the front. She recommended paying attention to the quality of the fabric and dyes as a primary way to distinguish genuine ajrakh from imitations.

Usha Rani said that authentic ajrakh will have intricate geometric or floral motifs on red or blue backgrounds, accented with vegetable dyes in colours like green and yellow. She stresses that real ajrakh is made from high-quality natural fabrics like cotton, silk, or a blend. Using synthetic fabrics or perfectly uniform designs is a sign of counterfeit ajrakh, as mass production lacks the uniqueness of traditional block printing. Genuine ajrakh has a smooth, soft texture and excellent draping qualities.

Supporting this art form can be as simple as buying authentic ajrakh from reputable sources, promoting awareness about its history, and engaging in initiatives that celebrate sustainable fashion. (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Evolution of ajrakh

Once primarily used by rural communities, ajrakh is now embraced in urban circles for its eco-friendly process and intricate designs. Usha Rani said that while ajrakh adapted to modern tastes with fabrics like silk and linen, preserving its core motifs is essential to maintaining its identity.

According to Kamdar, revitalisation efforts are necessary. “They must not only support the artisan community but also respond to the demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products,” she said. Ajrakh’s use of natural dyes ensures minimal environmental impact, setting it apart from fast fashion.

The use of eco-friendly dyes and natural procedures in ajrakh printing has always stood out, making it sustainable amidst the increasing challenges posed by fast fashion.

Supporting this art form can be as simple as buying authentic ajrakh from reputable sources, promoting awareness about its history, and engaging in initiatives that celebrate sustainable fashion. Ajrakh is a celebration of culture, creativity, and community. As we adorn ourselves with its colours and patterns, we carry a piece of history, a story waiting to be told, and a legacy to be cherished for generations.

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