From Nawabi courts to college campuses and Bollywood weddings, tracing the journey of Chikankari

In the lively bazaars of Lucknow, amid the vibrant chaos, you can spot delicate Chikankari kurti-wearing mannequins on shop displays from afar. This intricate embroidery, once reserved for royalty, has made its way into the wardrobes of Indians across all walks of life, evolving significantly over time.

“The term ‘chikan’ comes from the Persian word ‘chikin,’ meaning embroidery,” said professor John Varghese, School of Fashion, World University of Design (WUD), Sonipat.

Initially limited to muslin fabric, Chikankari is now seen on various fabrics, from silk and cotton to polyester chiffon and georgette. “Coloured threads have breathed new life into the traditional white-on-white embroidery,” Varghese said.

Chikankari has seen a resurgence, particularly among younger generations. Varghese credits this to the rise of sustainable and ethical fashion. “Lately, there is an increasing sense of pride in traditional crafts and indigenous art forms among the youth. It should also be noted that modern chikankari designs blend well with contemporary fashion, making it suitable for both casual and formal wear,” he said.

From everyday kurtis to luxurious wedding lehengas, Chikankari is everywhere now, consistently in demand. Its journey from the Mughal courts to modern college campuses and Bollywood weddings is fascinating.

Tracing the roots of Chikankari

The origins of Chikankari are debated, with two key narratives. Sugandha Suneja, assistant professor at NIFT Panchkula, said, “One version traces it back to 17th century Persia, brought to India by Noor Jahan, the queen of Mughal emperor Jahangir.”

“Another version suggests Chikankari may have roots in East Bengal, where “chikan” referred to something fine. This narrative has it that Chikankari was born out of the need for creation of a less expensive version of the jamdani weave of Bengal,” she said.

During the Mughal era, Chikankari became a symbol of luxury, used in the attire of the lower court of Awadh until the 1930s. It later found a permanent place in the Nawabi courts of Lucknow, where it remains a key craft today.

Nishit Gupta, director at KALKI, said that Chikankari-like embroidery dates back even further, possibly to 3rd century BC, as per Greek writer Megasthenes’s account. “Delicate needlework, characterised by floral and geometric designs, forms the core of Chikankari,” Gupta said.

Behind the scenes of Chikankari

Creating Chikankari is a detailed process. “The fabric is first washed, starched, and ironed to prepare a smooth surface,” said Gupta. “Traditional designs are then transferred onto the fabric using a temporary white paste, with freehand methods or stencils, used for precision.”

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Athiya Shetty (@athiyashetty)

According to Suneja, there are three main categories of stitches in Chikankari:

Flat stitches: These lie close to the fabric, adding a subtle texture.

Raised and embossed stitches: These stand out, creating a raised effect.

Jaali work: This involves creating lace-like patterns by manipulating the fabric’s threads without cutting them.

Common stitches include Bakhia (herringbone stitch), which creates a shadow effect, and Murri and Phanda, knotted stitches that add texture.

“The finishing process involves washing and getting rid of the design outlines and pastes. The embroidery will stand out vividly against its background when mild bleaching is done,” said Gupta.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Kriti (@kritisanon)

Identifying authentic chikankari

“Stitch quality, embroidery delicacy, and the application of traditional motifs are the hallmarks of genuine Chikankari,” said Suneja. The motifs are typically inspired by Mughal art, with elements like flowers, paisleys, and geometric patterns.

The stitches should be small, uniform, and free of loose threads or unfinished ends. “The back of the fabric, where the threads are not visible, is the defining feature of authentic Chikankari embroidery. This is especially the case when working with the reverse side of the fabric, as is done in the case of complex stitches like Bakhia,” said Suneja.

“Besides intricate embroidery with fine stitches, Chikankari involves the use of high-quality materials such as muslin, cotton or silk that feels soft and luxurious to the touch,” said Gupta. He also suggested looking for a certificate of authenticity or purchasing from reputed dealers or artisans.

Model wearing a Chikankari sari (Source: KALKI)

Challenges faced by the industry

The rise of machine-made versions that lacks the beauty and authenticity of hand-embroidered pieces is a major concern. “This has reduced the value of traditional Chikankari,” said Suneja, while accepting it is more affordable and takes less time to manufacture.

Gupta pointed out the difficult conditions for artisans, who often earn low wages. “There’s a risk of losing skilled artisans as younger generations lose interest in traditional crafts,” he said, adding that competition from other forms of embroidery threatens Chikankari’s future.

Supporting the craft is essential. Varghese suggested a few ways people can do that –– by buying genuine Chikankari from trusted sources, sharing its cultural significance through social media, contributing to organisations that work towards the welfare of Chikankari artisans, and even taking up Chikankari as a hobby to help keep the tradition alive.

Disclaimer: The copyright of this article belongs to the original author. Reposting this article is solely for the purpose of information dissemination and does not constitute any investment advice. If there is any infringement, please contact us immediately. We will make corrections or deletions as necessary. Thank you.