‘Worked together for 50-55 hours’: Artist Shehzad Ali Sherani on creating Nita Ambani’s hand-painted Pichwai-inspired blouse with ‘real gold’

When Nita Ambani stepped out in a stunning multi-hued Manish Malhotra-designed Banarasi saree for her son Anant’s wedding, all eyes were drawn to her intricately hand-painted purple blouse. This unique piece, inspired by the traditional Pichwai art form, was the handiwork of master artist Shehzad Ali Sherani, 77, from Kishangarh, Rajasthan, a veteran with over seven decades of experience.

For Sherani, this was an opportunity to showcase an art form not widely known but has been an integral part of him since childhood. The deadline was tight, as he received the request just a week before Anant and Radhika’s grand wedding in Mumbai. “This was a big challenge,” he revealed. “I, my son Faizan, and other people in our team worked together for 50-55 hours. We were able to deliver it on time.”

Pichwai refers to the paintings placed behind the deity Shrinathji or Thakurji, a form of Lord Krishna. In Shrinathji temples, different Pichwai paintings are displayed according to various darshans (auspicious sightings of a deity), such as Sharad Purnima, Annakoot, Phagotsav, Gopashtami, Daanleela; there are 24 such darshans.

“This opportunity came to us through MeMeraki, a culture-tech platform that manages all our sales and gets us exciting new projects,” Sherani said. “They were in touch with Malhotra. Ambani is known as a big supporter of heritage and culture; she wanted something unique for her outfit. MeMeraki is known for working with all traditional arts of India, so when they were asked for this requirement, their team immediately recommended me,” he said.

Pichwai artist shares a glimpse of what went into creating Nita Ambani’s hand painted blouse.

The process

The process of creating this masterpiece was intricate and time-consuming. “First, we did the drawing and got it approved. After that, we printed the blouse. We applied yellow colour on the base of the blouse where we wanted to apply real gold sourced from Pannigaron Ka Mohalla in Jaipur, renowned for creating authentic gold leafs,” Sherani explained. The artist then used a “special paste made with sugar” to prepare the surface for the gold application.

The incorporation of genuine gold leaf was a specific request from Ambani herself. Sherani elaborated on this element, “The use of real gold has been in practice since the Mughal period. In Rajasthan, Pichwai artists from every region including Bikaner, Kota, Udaipur, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Mewar, as well as those in other regions such as Kangra, Kullu and South India have used real gold and silver sheets in their artworks. We were specifically told by the designer, Manish Malhotra, to work on the blouse with gold,” Sherani explained.

Pichwai art traditionally adorns large canvases, often measuring several feet. However, Sherani expertly adapted the style to the smaller canvas of a blouse. “Traditional Pichwai art is usually created on large fabrics and canvases, but we also produce them in smaller sizes, known as miniature works, so we did not feel overwhelmed by the task in front of us. It wasn’t something new for me or my team,” Sherani noted.

 

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A post shared by Shehzad Ali Sherani || Kishangarh & Pichwai Artist (@pichwai_shehzadali)

Sherani’s seven-decade-journey

While the intricately-designed blouse has captured widespread attention, the artist’s personal journey is equally captivating. He began Pichwai painting in his childhood. “I have been painting since I was 7 years old,” Sherani reminisced.

His father, late Dr Faiyaz Ali Khan, was a renowned literary figure. Recognising his son’s talent, he sent him to study under renowned artists. “When he saw my interest in this art form, he sent me to Jaipur to learn painting from Padma Shri Kripal Singh Shekhawat, where I formally studied painting,” he said.

After returning to Kishangarh, at his father’s suggestion, Sherani worked to revive the Kishangarh style, which had almost vanished, and started creating Pichwai paintings.

For Shehzad Ali Sherani, this was an opportunity to showcase an art form that is not widely known.

The declining art form

Sherani expressed concern about the future of Pichwai art, noting a decline in traditional practice and a shift towards experimentation. He believes this issue affects all traditional Rajasthani styles, including Kishangarh, Kota, Bundi, Mewar, Marwar, and Jaipur, with a minimal number of artists preserving their essence.

However, projects like those for Nita Ambani offer hope, as high-profile initiatives can draw global attention and recognition to Pichwai. Sherani sees such opportunities as inspiring traditional artists to produce exceptional work.

As a nod to the hard work done by Sherani, Ambani expressed her appreciation for such collaborations. In a post shared on Instagram, she mentioned, “Over the course of Anant and Radhika’s wedding, I have enjoyed embracing the beauty of Indian weaves and embroideries, handcrafted by master artisans using age-old traditional techniques. I am humbled to play a small role in preserving and promoting our rich cultural heritage.”

As Pichwai art gains visibility through such high-profile projects, artists like Sherani continue to work tirelessly to preserve and promote this traditional art form. Their dedication ensures that the rich cultural heritage of India continues to thrive and evolve, one masterpiece at a time.

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