Rohit Gandhi-Rahul Khanna reflect on three-decade journey in fashion: ‘There are times when we see things differently’

For nearly three decades, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna have not only pioneered men’s fashion in India but also earned acclaim for their unique silhouettes and textures in womenswear. Despite their success, the duo admits they never imagined their dream would “take this shape.” In an exclusive interview, the designers discuss their journey, design philosophy, latest collection, celebrity collaborations, and more. Read the edited excerpts below:

Q: 27 years in the industry. How does it feel? Is this the journey you envisioned when starting the label in 1997?

Rahul Khanna: The journey has been phenomenal. When we started in 1997, we had a dream, but we never envisioned it would take this shape. We’ve stayed true to our core values despite highs and lows of the fashion world. Looking back 27 years, it’s incredible to see that our passion has translated to something so effective, appealing to people of diverse cultures and age groups.

Q: In all this time, how much has your design philosophy changed and how?

Rahul Khanna: Our design philosophy has evolved, but its essence remains the same—clean lines and a modern aesthetic––but now, the vision has grown to include more complex ideas and textures. We’ve learned to embrace contrasts, like structure and fluidity. It has made designing a holistic process that conveys emotion and tells a story, not just making a garment.

 

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Q: Tell us about Nocturnum: the designs, the inspiration, and what sets it apart from your previous collections.

Rahul Khanna: Nocturnum is a collection that draws inspiration from the mysteries of the night and celestial bodies, particularly falling stars. What sets this collection apart is its deep exploration of contrasts—light and darkness, structure and fluidity—and the introduction of new textures and colours like mocha gold, for added depth.

Q: How long did it take you to create this collection, in terms of man hours?

Rahul Khanna: We started working on the idea in January. The developing stage took another three to four months, and the final collection was ready in June.

Q: Celebrities are often spotted wearing your creations. How important are such associations for the brand, and why?

Rahul Khanna: Celebrity associations are important, not just for visibility but also for finding someone who embodies the spirit of our designs. When they connect with the collection’s essence, they create an authentic narrative that resonates with their audience. It’s a symbiotic relationship that enhances the brand story.

Models wearing designs from their latest collection, Nocturnum.

Q: Similarly, who do you feel carries your clothes best?

Rahul Khanna: I feel everyone who resonates with our brand aesthetic. In Bollywood, I feel Vicky Kaushal and Ranveer Singh are two people who carry our creations beautifully.

Q: Over the years, how have you both resolved differences in opinions regarding designs, collections, and other professional matters? Does it get challenging at times?

Rahul Khanna: We’ve developed a deep understanding and respect for each other’s insights. Of course, there are times we may see things differently; the secret lies in communicating with each other, trusting each other’s instincts, and being open to compromise. It’s not always easy, but that push-pull is part of what allows us to make something special. It’s a part of the process by which better, fully-realized things usually take shape.

Q: What is your take on the relevance and importance of fashion weeks? Why are they needed?

Rahul Khanna: Fashion weeks are important as they allow designers to showcase creativity and innovation, set the tone for the rest of the season, spark industry conversations, and prompt trends. Fashion weeks unite the global fashion community, buyers, media, and influencers, driving collaboration and growth. They also keep this industry fresh, alive, and relevant through the constant evolution of fashion.

 

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Q: How sustainable is the Indian fashion industry today? What does sustainability mean to you?

Rahul Khanna: Sustainability in Indian fashion is a growing journey, but there’s more to achieve. For us, it means crafting timeless pieces that transcend seasons, using environmentally conscious materials and techniques, and supporting artisans who bring those designs to life.

Q: What sets Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna’s designs apart from their contemporaries?

Rahul Khanna: Our designs balance structure and emotion. We’ve always been drawn to architectural lines, but we infuse them with fluidity and movement that gives our pieces a unique dynamism. Our attention to detail, whether it’s in the intricate hand embroidery or the innovative use of textures and materials, defines our work. Our designs are modern yet timeless, bold yet sophisticated, and garments that tell a story and evoke an emotional response.

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