Kunal Rawal opens up about his design philosophy, says he’s committed to androgynous fashion in this ‘gender-bender’ world

From Aditya Roy Kapoor as his showstopper to fashion designer Anaita Shroff Adajania walking the ramp in menswear, Kunal Rawal’s show at the recently concluded India Couture Week was glitzy and grand. There was also foot-tapping music, positive motifs and vibes, and female models wearing sehra. Ask him about it and the owner of the eponymous Indian luxury menswear brand talks about his love for androgyny and how it all makes sense in a “gender-bender world”. He also gives us a peek into his almost two-decade-long journey, why inclusivity is essential for him, marrying his contemporary, and why he feels his career is just getting started. Read the edited excerpts below:

You showcased your latest collection — Sehra — at the ICW. Tell us about that.

Kunal Rawal: This season, we chose to focus on bridal couture, as it embodies everything Indian occasion wear is about; it is sacrosanct. For me, sehra symbolises a sacred accessory used during the union in a wedding, a concept that deeply resonates with me due to my fascination with weddings and occasion wear.

I was thinking about everything associated with weddings, like the concept of shubh muhurat, positivity, and blessings, and the collection features motifs inspired by good omens, such as planetary movements, coconuts, betel leaves, kala dhaaga and even tikkas. We also reinterpreted traditional crafts like Tangaliya weaves and patolas for men, adding our signature French knots for evening wear, much like what you saw on Aditya Roy Kapoor’s patola-inspired jacket. It came across as a diamond-repeated check, elements in four to five different types of burnished work, antique work, oxidised and gunmetal works. We also had brocade, bandhani, gara work (Parsi and Kashmiri), tufting work, pearl work, Lucknowi chikan work, and shadow work, some of which have been introduced into the brand for the first time, and some, you will see more of from us, going forward.

What fascinates you about Indian weddings so much that you based your collection on it?

Kunal Rawal: What fascinates me about Indian wear and weddings is their uniqueness—celebrated with song, dance, and multiple meaningful ceremonies leading to the final union. Understanding the history and significance behind each aspect deepened my appreciation for it over the years. As my design journey evolved, I recognised the value of these celebrations, influenced by my religious mother, who instilled in me a curiosity for the “whys” and “hows.” This led me to extensive research, resulting in an entire collection inspired by the beauty and tradition of Indian weddings.

Stylist walked for Kunal Rawal in menswear, making a strong case of androgenous fashion. (Photo: PR handout)

Your show had some standout moments: Anaita Shroff Adajania in menswear, a lehenga-clad woman wearing a sehra (usually worn by grooms). Tell us the thought process behind the same.

Kunal Rawal: Inclusivity, gender neutrality, and androgyny are central to my design philosophy. I’ve always believed that no one should dictate what you wear. If I like something, I should be able to wear it without being judged. We were introducing the “Kunal Rawal bride”, wearing a bridal bandhgala blouse with a lehenga, inspired by patola checks. The sehra added a powerful message in our gender-bender world. I believe nothing belongs to a specific gender anymore, and if it does, it’s time to reimagine it.

Anaita is like family, a significant part of our brand. I can’t imagine my runway without her. She even styled me for my wedding. Having her walk for us was a big moment, and I insisted on it. I wanted to have somebody as powerful as her to open in one of our classic silhouettes, our double jackets, but with a new twist, adding depth to the storytelling and mood of the show. And, honestly, I have realised I am a man of comfort, happiest with the people I love around me. That’s why you’ll often see my friends walking for us at different shows, because I’m all about my community.

You also had Aditya Roy Kapur as your showstopper. Is having one important for you, why?

Kunal Rawal: A showstopper look encapsulates what the designer or design house aims to convey through the entire collection. For us, Aditya Roy Kapur was the perfect choice. He’s one of the coolest, most authentic people I know—natural, not always perfectly packaged, and full of unique energy. His X factor makes him a powerhouse of talent, and we’ve known each other for a long time. He embodies the spirit of our collection perfectly.

Celebrity vs models as showstoppers — which would you prefer, and why?

Kunal Rawal: I see celebrities, supermodels, and models as essentially the same—just different tags. It’s about finding personalities that best represent the collection. I prefer having celebrity friends as showstoppers because they’re integral to our brand and often involved in the design process. They’re not just models or actors; they’re strong personalities who bring unique energy to our runway.

How inclusive would you call the country’s fashion industry?

Kunal Rawal: Inclusivity, I think, is a work in progress, with different levels of adoption based on perspective. We strive to be increasingly inclusive, reflecting the world we want to create. Rather than preaching, we express our values subtly, hoping people catch it and they resonate and contribute to the inclusive world we’re building together.

The most challenging thing about being a designer today?

Kunal Rawal: Today’s designers face the challenge of balancing creativity with entrepreneurial duties, leaving less time for focused design work. While adapting to this reality, we still yearn for more dedicated creative time amidst the demands of running a business.

You are married to a designer. Does it get competitive? How do you support each other but draw a line when it comes to your professional lives?

Kunal Rawal: Navigating parallel careers with my partner is both challenging and rewarding. While we don’t discuss every detail, having someone in the same field at home makes it easier to understand each other’s demands. It’s great to have a creative sounding board and share insights, especially since work is ever-present. With Arpita (Mehta) and my family being creative forces, our home is a hub of constant inspiration and innovation.

 

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What is the biggest risk you have taken professionally?

Kunal Rawal: Sticking to my guns and sticking to menswear from the word go. It’s been a bumpy road, but I think our journey has just started. It’s taken 17-18 years for our label to be counted as mainstream. Our fun, our growth, our design offering will start now and will get more and more exciting because men’s wear is finally in such an exciting space.

In the last 18 years, have you achieved what you envisioned for your label? What are you most proud of, and what is your biggest regret?

Kunal Rawal: I’ve had ups and downs that have made me grateful, humble, and appreciative of what I have. The challenges taught me valuable lessons and reinforced my commitment to our aesthetic of functional menswear and androgyny, even when it was a niche market. While I wish I’d started my label earlier, I don’t see it as a regret. Everything we’ve done has shaped who we are, and I don’t believe in regrets.

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