How Radhika Merchant’s Panetar lehenga symbolises Gujarati connect

Radhika Merchant’s wedding ensemble had us all in awe! The Ambani bride wore a custom Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla ivory lehenga and dupatta set bordered with red. Radhika, who was born in Gujarat, embraced her cultural roots and heritage by wearing a Panetar, an integral part of Kutchi wedding culture.

Taking to Instagram, the couturier shared that, “Radhika’s ensemble is Abu Sandeep’s intricate interpretation of ‘Panetar’ – the Gujarati tradition of brides wearing red and white.”

Indianexpress.com spoke to fashion designers and stylists to understand more about this Gujarati tradition and how it ties beautifully with Merchant’s wedding attire.

What is a Panetar?

Celebrity stylist Isha Bhansali, who herself hails from Gujarat, shared that a “Panetar is not just for Kutchhis, but is shared by all Gujaratis”. According to her, it’s a traditional Gujarati bridal outfit, which is predominantly white and has hints of red on it.

“White and red are symbols of purity and love, in that particular order,” added Bhansali.

 

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“If you have seen Kiara Advani in the film Satyaprem ki Katha, she plays a Gujarati bride wearing a Panetar. It’s a gift from the bride’s mother or father, and is supposed to be her farewell outfit for her wedding. Later, her in-laws gift her a ‘gharcholu’, which is a Bandhani,” said the stylist.

Fashion designer Nida Mahmood agreed that a panetar is the traditional wedding attire worn in Gujarat. “It is a gift to the bride from her maternal side,” she added.

“This can be either be a sari or a lehenga choli. Traditionally the bride wears this outfit for the first part of the wedding and changes into a Gharchola for the second half, symbolising her transition from a maiden to a married woman,” said Mahmood.

Now, what’s a Gharchola?

According to her, a ‘Gharchola’ has deep symbolism associated with Gujarati culture.

“The word is made of two words ‘ghar’ and ‘chola’- Literally translated to home attire. But here home refers to the bride’s new home after marriage,” said the designer.

“Gharchola is typically made in silk or cotton. The fabric is divided into rows of white tie-dyed squares or woven bands of zari motifs, which create a grid-like pattern,” shared Mahmood.

Originating from the Khambat (Cambay) region of Gujarat, gharcholas have been used for years in Gujarati weddings, she added.

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