Remember Alia Bhatt’s stunning Ajrakh sari? Now this centuries-old Gujarati textile has got a GI tag

Remember Alia Bhatt’s stunning Ajrakh sari at the 2024 Joy Awards? Her look, styled by Rhea Kapoor, put a spotlight on this traditional Indian art form. Now, the artistry behind the Ajrakh print is receiving official recognition.

The Office of the Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trademarks (CGPDTM) has awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) certificate to the artisans of “Kutch Ajrakh.” This prestigious tag signifies the importance of the unique Ajrakh block printing technique that originates from Gujarat’s Kutch region. The GI certification safeguards this cultural heritage and empowers the skilled artisans who keep it alive.

According to Professor John Varghese, School of Fashion, World University of Design, this is a much-needed step towards preserving the rich legacy of Indian textiles. “In a world of fast fashion and mass production,” he said, “Ajrakh printing stands out as a testament to the beauty of slow craftsmanship and sustainable practices. Each piece is a labour of love, taking days, sometimes weeks, to complete.”

 

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The art of Ajrakh printing

Professor Varghese explained the process of Ajrakh block printing involves a meticulous 12-14 steps. It begins with hand carving the desired motif onto a block, followed by preparing the cloth and applying natural dyes like indigo and madder. Resist areas are then imprinted, and the fabric undergoes repeated washing and drying. The result is not just a garment, but a work of art, infused with the spirit of the artisan and a legacy spanning centuries.

A history steeped in tradition

The word “Ajrakh” itself has roots in the Arabic word “Azrak,” meaning “azure” or “blue,” reflecting the dominant hue achieved through indigo dyes. Professor Varghese noted that this colour symbolism can be traced back as far as 3000 BC, evidenced by artifacts discovered in Mohenjodaro, a prominent Indus Valley Civilization city.

“The presence of Ajrakh textiles from Gujarat in locations like Al-Fostat near old Cairo, Egypt, highlights their widespread popularity and the extensive trade routes these fabrics traversed throughout history,” explained Professor Varghese. “Ajrakh is a craft that has endured for over 4,000 years.”

From Indus Valley to Kutch

While originating in the lands of the Indus Valley Civilization, Ajrakh finds its specific roots in the arid lands of Sindh. Around 400 years ago, following royal patronage, different artisan groups migrated to the Kutch region of India, where the craft truly flourished.

Historically, Ajrakh motifs drew inspiration from the natural world and architectural wonders surrounding the Indus Valley. Traditional designs feature geometric patterns and intricate floral motifs, echoing the rich tapestry of Indian culture and heritage.

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