Can keratin hair treatments cause kidney problems? This is what a new study suggests

Keratin hair treatments have become a mainstay in the beauty industry, especially for individuals looking for frizz-free, silky straight hair. While the allure of such hair straightening treatments is undeniable, new research reveals concerning evidence and advises caution before going for it.

A recent study published in The New England Journal of Medicine suggests that the use of keratin-based hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid increases the risk of acute kidney injury (AKI) due to oxalate crystals formed in the kidneys.

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Emerging evidence suggesting that keratin-based hair straightening products containing glycolic acid or glyoxylic acid is associated with development of kidney injury and chronic kidney disease.

Glycolic acid is a byproduct of the oxalate pathway… https://t.co/VBEIu6kfn0

— TheLiverDoc (@theliverdr) March 23, 2024

To investigate the matter further, we reached out to an expert to verify this claim.

According to Dr Urmila Anandh, HOD of nephrology at Amrita Hospital, Faridabad, in earlier days, keratin-based hair treatments contained formaldehyde, which led to adverse reactions to the hair, skin, and eyes. However, this chemical compound was replaced with glycolic acid.

“When glycolic acid metabolises, it becomes glyoxylic acid, and finally forms oxalate, which in turn harms the kidneys,” Dr Anandh explained. “Glycolic acid is absorbed into the bloodstream and gets converted into oxalate, causing kidney damage,” she added.

Another paper published in the American Journal of Kidney Diseases revealed similar findings. The researchers retrospectively identified 26 patients in Israel who experienced severe AKI after opting for hair-straightening products. “Seven patients underwent kidney biopsies, which demonstrated intratubular calcium oxalate deposition in 6 and microcalcification in tubular cells in 1,” the study noted.

Not only this, glycolic acid is a common ingredient found in various products, such as cleaners, toners, serums, and moisturisers, which according to Dr Anandh can pose certain risks to the kidneys, but the results are inconclusive. “The concentration of glycolic acid is not as high in skincare products as it is in keratin-based hair treatments where it is a main constituent.”

Health experts call for more in-depth studies to understand the implications of keratin-based hair straightening products on kidneys.

If you’re looking at keratin-based treatments, Dr Anandh advises consulting your dermatologist, choosing certified salons, and not opting for them frequently.

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