Pulao vs. Biryani: Chef Kunal Kapur decodes the distinction between the dishes

In the intricate tapestry of South Asian cuisine, few dishes command as much reverence as pulao and biryani. These rice-based delicacies, beloved for their rich flavours and aromatic spices, hold a special place in the hearts and palates of millions. Yet, despite their apparent similarities, a stark culinary divide separates them.

To understand the difference between pulao and biryani, chef Kunal Kapur delved into their origins, lineage, and preparation styles.

Chef Kapur noted that while pulao and biryani are both rice dishes cooked using the “dum” method (sealing the vessel and applying heat from top and bottom), there are differences that completely separate them.

One common notion is that pulao or pulav is an Indian dish; however, chef Kapur pointed out that it was first made in Central Asia, specifically modern-day Baghdad. “That too with meat,” he added.

From there, pulao spread as far as India and Europe. “When this meat pulao or yakhni pulao came to India, different types of spices were added to it,” Chef Kapur explained.

Taking inspiration from this pulao, biryani was made in India for the first time. According to historian Lizzie Collingham, modern-day biryani developed in the royal kitchens of the Mughal Empire. “It is a mix of the native spicy dishes of India and the Persian pilaf (pulao),” she noted in her book, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors.

 

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As for the difference between the two, “While cooking pulao, meat is always boiled with spices. On the other hand, while cooking biryani, meat is always stir-fried in oil or ghee,” chef Kapur noted. The cooking methods — boiling and stir-frying — are the primary differences between pulao and biryani that completely change its taste and colour. Additionally, when biryani is prepared in large quantities, it is layered with rice, a defining characteristic of the dish.

With the age-old debate between pulao and biryani clarified, Chef Kapur also shared a recipe for Muradabadi Chicken Biryani.

Ingredients:

• 1 kg chicken, with bone
• Salt to taste
• 3-4 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp green chili paste
• 2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
• 1 tbsp fennel seed powder
• 2 tbsp coriander powder
• 2-3 blades javitri (mace spice)
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 2 bay leaves
• 10-12 peppercorns
• 5 cardamoms
• 5 cloves
• 1/4 nutmeg
• 1 cup curd

For cooking:

• 1 cup ghee/oil
• 1 1/2 cups onion, sliced
• 2 1/2-3 cups water
• 5-6 green chilies, slit
• 2 cups Basmati rice
• Salt to taste
• A pinch of saffron, dissolved

For Biryani Raita:

• 1/4 cup onion, chopped
• 1/4 cup cucumber, chopped
• 1/4 cup tomato, chopped
• 2 cups curd
• Salt to taste
• 1/2 tsp black salt
• 1 tsp chili powder
• 2 tsp roasted cumin powder
• 1 green chili, chopped
• Handful of coriander, chopped

Steps:

1. Marinate the chicken with salt, lemon juice, ginger garlic paste, curd, green chili paste, javitri, star anise, bay leaf, nutmeg, peppercorn, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander powder and fennel powder.
2. Mix them and leave aside for 30 mins.
3. In a handi, heat oil and add sliced onions. Once they are brown, remove a little for garnish. In the remaining onions, add slit green chillies, and then add the marinated chicken.
4. Cook on high flame for 2 mins then lower heat, cover, and cook till chicken is 80% done. Do not add water.
5. Once the chicken leaves the oil, add water.
6. Once the water comes to a boil, check and adjust the salt and then add the soaked rice.
7. Cook on high flame till it comes to a boil, then lower heat, cover and cook till the rice absorbs all the water.
8. Now garnish the rice with fried onions, ghee, kewra water, and dissolved saffron.

Enjoy!

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