‘Kokilaben Ambani frequently chooses our French chiffons for her most special occasions’: Designer Maayankraj Singh

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magine a young boy “stitching fabric into tales of elegance” under the “watchful eyes” of icons like Begum Aga Khan, Nawab Pataudi, Zulfiqar Pataudi, Leela Naidu, and Rajmata Gayatri Devi. Their impeccable style, sophistication, and grace deeply inspired this boy, who became designer Maayankraj Singh, 33, the founder of Atelier Shikaarbagh. His grandmother, Rani Urmila Rajey of Dholpur, Rajasthan, was instrumental in his journey, introducing him to luxury Indo-French ensembles and saris.

Singh, whose patrons include Kareena Kapoor Khan, Shloka Ambani, and Kokilaben Ambani, among others, emphasised the importance of heritage and authenticity in fashion. “It’s crucial to be comfortable in what we wear and to take pride in our cultural garments, especially the sari. It’s a symbol of our identity, history, and creativity; a versatile masterpiece that can make anyone feel beautiful and empowered,” said Singh in an email interaction with indianexpress.com, and also gave insights into his design process, latest collection and thoughts on sustainability in fashion design.

Edited excerpts here:

Tell us about your design journey

MS: My journey began at home. Growing up, my grandmother encouraged me to transform the exquisite embroidered fabrics we had into sarees for herself, her children, and her illustrious circle of friends. This nurturing environment was steeped in history and refinement.

You have an eye for the history of the arts. What inspires your thoughts about creating something new?

MS: My greatest inspiration comes from my grandmother’s wardrobe. Her collection of saris, each made by the best designers of her time, fuels my creativity. The boudoir, filled with treasures from various eras, reminds me of the beauty and intricacy of couture, inspiring me to create pieces that are both timeless and modern.

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Your latest collection ‘Urmila – The Enchantress’ is a tribute to your grandmother. Tell us more about it

MS: It is not just a collection; it’s a romantic reflection of my grandmother’s life, a tribute to her legacy, and an ode to the high fashion of the 50s. Rather than drawing inspiration directly from cinema, it takes a deeper dive into the essence of the era—the opulence, the grace, and the understated grandeur that defined the wardrobes of that time. Each piece in this collection––woven with the finest silk satins, French organzas, cotton poplin, and silk chiffons from Lyons––tells a story. The colour palette—rouge, blush pink, sweet lemons, inky blue, azure teal, khaki, gulkand, sona, and haldi—blends femininity and heritage. The collection’s silhouettes, from classic sarees to diaphanous salwar-kameez sets, and Western cuts, merge the old-world charm with modern sophistication.

Kokilaben Ambani, Smriti Irani, and Kareena Kapoor Khan have worn your designs. Share some cherished memories of working with some of them.

MS: One of my most treasured memories is of the ever-graceful Kokilaben Ambani. On seeing the Maharani of Kutch, Maharani Preeti Devi, adorned in one of our saris, she was so enchanted by its elegance that she reached out to us. She lovingly coined our saris “Stetia,” her way of describing saris befitting royalty. Since that day, she has become a devoted patron, frequently choosing our French chiffons for her most special occasions.

I also recall when Kareena Kapoor Khan ordered one of our saris for Karva Chauth. Later, her mother-in-law, the iconic Sharmila Tagore, admired the sari and called it one of the most exquisite she had ever seen. Another memory etched in my mind is when Princess Sarwat of Jordan ordered a sari from us in 2021. She recently wore it to the Crown Prince of Jordan’s royal wedding, a testament to the timeless appeal of our creations.

These experiences are more than milestones in my career.

 

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How would you describe your design process?

MS: My process is deeply intuitive. It begins with a narrative, a story I want to tell through my collection. From there, I immerse myself in research, drawing inspiration from history, art, and nature. To unwind, I often retreat to the peaceful surroundings of my ancestral home in Rajasthan. The tranquility there allows me to reconnect with my creative instincts. I also find inspiration in simple, everyday moments—whether it’s a conversation, a piece of music, or a fleeting memory.

Anyone on your wishlist?

MS: I would be honoured to dress Kate Middleton. Her elegance and poise align perfectly with the ethos of Atelier Shikaarbagh. I also dream of dressing Audrey Hepburn, Zeenat Aman, Waheeda Rehman, and Leela Naidu as they embody the timeless beauty and sophistication that our brand stands for.

 

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What’s your take on sustainability in fashion?

MS: Sustainability, to me, is about respecting the natural world and its resources. It begins with the materials we choose — using only the purest fabrics, such as silk satins, French organzas, and Indian silk chiffons, which have a natural shelf life and will eventually biodegrade, leaving no harmful impact on the environment.

In our packaging, we avoid ornate, non-recyclable materials, opting for simple, sustainable options. Even the plastic coverings we use to protect our saris are chosen for their minimal environmental footprint. Another significant practice is repurposing the scrap fabric from our workshop. We turn these into beds, cushions, and mattresses, which we donate to pet shelters and old-age homes. This holistic approach to sustainability ensures that every step of our process, from creation to packaging, is mindful of our world.

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