Chef Osama Jalali on authentic recipes being tampered with: ‘It hurts, I am a traditionalist at heart’

If you love Mughal cuisine and experimenting with your taste buds, there is very little chance you may not have heard of Chef Osama Jalali. Best known for his zest for reviving lost Indian recipes, the historian-turned-culinary wizard is on a mission to “preserve the culinary heritage of undivided India,” evoking a sense of nostalgia.

In an exclusive email interview with indianexpress.com, Jalali––known for his Shahjahani, Rampuri, and Mughal recipes––tells us about his love for the cuisines, social media food experiments, his most priced culinary creation, his fitness journey, and the one dish he feels he is yet to master. Read the edited excerpts below:

Today, you are among the most recognised faces and names in the culinary world. How and when did your love affair with food begin?

Chef Osama Jalali: It all began as a kid; I would always find myself in the kitchen, helping my mother. She recalls how I, five years old then, used to sit on the kitchen slab, fascinated watching her make perfectly round rotis.

At a time chefs and restaurants are busy experimenting their skills and menus, you have stayed true to your roots – reviving Mughal and Nawabi cuisines. Do you not fear being left out/losing out on the ‘trends’?

Chef Osama Jalali: Our future lies in our past. I firmly believe in preserving our culinary heritage amid evolving trends. Many cuisines, innovations, and variations will come and go, but we also need to guard our culinary heritage. India is a vast country with rich regional cuisines offering endless exploration opportunities.

Owing to this experimentation and social media, many traditional recipes are tampered with. Does that hurt you? If you could pick one dish that you feel has lost its original charm, taste, or cooking technique due to its contemporisation, which would it be?

Chef Osama Jalali: Yes, it does hurt. I am a traditionalist at heart. I dislike when people tamper with dishes or take shortcuts. Cooking is all about love and patience. Nowadays, there’s a trend of enhancing flavors with excessive cream and butter, especially on kebabs, masking the original essence of spices and meat.

One dish that has lost its authenticity due to contemporary alterations is the popular nihari. Originally cooked overnight in its own juices and stock, it’s now often modified with tomatoes and flour slurry, resulting in a thicker consistency that deviates from its original taste.

 

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What inspired you to open the book of your recipes, often kept a secret, to the world?

Chef Osama Jalali: Sharing is crucial to safeguarding our culinary heritage. Historically, recipes were closely guarded secrets that were never documented properly. By teaching and sharing, we ensure our culinary legacy is passed on and lives on for generations.

Is there any recipe you have still kept a secret, waiting for something special to reveal? Or do you plan to keep it hidden?

Chef Osama Jalali: Life is too short and unexpected for secrets; we don’t keep any! We’ve openly shared all our recipes.

Which dish of yours are you most proud of/is most liked by diners; and why?

Chef Osama Jalali: We take immense pride in rediscovering meat/gosht ka halwa. Its unexpected appeal as a non-vegetarian dessert has won the hearts of many.

Chicken Koyla Kadhai, Kathal Korma, and Chicken Seekh by Chef Osama Jalali. (Photo: PR handout)

How much of your dishes do you tweak to suit the modern taste buds? In such cases how (and in what ways) do you keep the authenticity intact?

Chef Osama Jalali: We don’t compromise or tweak anything at all, even with spices and fat. Authenticity is paramount; we prepare dishes exactly how they’re meant to be, ensuring the traditional flavors remain intact.

While you know ancient recipes like the back of your hand, do you easily get the raw materials that were used to prepare them even today? Is it a challenge to source them?

Chef Osama Jalali: Not always. Some spices are only found in specific markets, like Khari Boali in Old Delhi. The quality of raw ingredients has also declined. So, we struggle a lot with sourcing the right cut of meat, especially when we travel.

Tell us about your latest pop-up at Quattro, The Leela Bhartiya City.

Chef Osama Jalali: I love working with The Leela Bhartiya City and The Leela hotels, palaces, and resorts. During my tours, I almost always do a pop-up at one of The Leelas because they have always been such big supporters of not just me, but the culinary craft in general, and curating unique dining experiences.

This time too, the experience has been nothing short of incredible. We showcased North west Frontier cuisine in Bengaluru for the first time, and the response has been phenomenal. Quattro is a wonderful restaurant. Its ambiance, especially the open space for live kebab preparations, added to the overall charm of the event.

 

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You are also known for your dedication to fitness. Tell us about that. How challenging can it be to stay away from eating when you are a chef?

Chef Osama Jalali: Maintaining a healthy lifestyle is essential if you enjoy food. It can be challenging, but it is a balancing act and where there’s a will, there’s a way. I ensure I stay in hotels with gyms and work out every single day. I also try to complete a minimum of 10k steps everyday. When it comes to food, it’s about training your mind to make healthy choices.

One dish from your childhood you really miss.

Chef Osama Jalali: Malida. It is a sweet dish made out of roti ke tukde (pieces of roti), a traditional dessert popular among Pashtun and Persian households and in northern India and Pakistan. Usually made from leftover roti that is crumbled and pounded, and then stir-fried with ghee, sugar, dried fruits, and nuts.

A dish you are still in the process of mastering.

Chef Osama Jalali: Biryani (laughs). It’s always the classic dishes that take the most time to master.

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