How filter coffee became South India’s soulful drink

Filter coffee, known for its rich flavours and comforting warmth is a popular beverage consumed mostly in the southern part of India. But, did you know that it holds a history woven with cultural significance and colonial influence? 

According to digital creator Ahan A Swamy, “South India’s favourite filter coffee is connected to the cruel caste system.” He says that coffee was initially consumed by the British, but eventually adopted by Tamil Brahmins “to appear elite.” 

 

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But, where did coffee first originate from, how did it come to India and evolve into filter coffee?

Dr Dimple Jangda, ayurvedic Coach and gut specialist, elaborates on how coffee first originated. “Coffee originated in Ethiopia, and as per local folklore it is believed that a goat herder named Kaldi discovered its energising impact when his goats accidentally ate coffee berries. From here, coffee made its journey to the Arabian peninsula and remained a rare expensive food commodity that was traded or bartered for favours.”

In the Arab world, they not only made coffee an integral part of their loyalty but also designed and designated coffee houses called “Qahveh Khaneh”, she says, where people came together to socialise, drink coffee, listen to music and engage with each other. 

Around the 16th century, coffee made its journey through trade routes by Venetian and Genoese merchants and made its debut appearance in Europe. “Soon enough people picked a strong liking to the flavour and gathered in coffee houses for social engagements.” 

How coffee came to India

Dr Jangda continues, “During the 17th century Sufi saint Baba Budan, smuggled about seven coffee beans from Yemen to Mysore, India. He planted it in the Chikmagalur hills in Karnataka, which became known as the birthplace of coffee plantations in India.”

Coffee plantation and coffee as a drink itself, soon spread to other parts of India. In fact, the British promoted this as an alternative to tea to boost sales. “It started to spread to other regions like Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu. Initially the brahmin community showed resistance to the idea of coffee as a replacement to their teas and herbal concoctions. They even considered it as a taboo or a foreign object. Their first preference was tea and herbal concoctions.”

 

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Soon after, however, filter coffee was accepted as a drink of the elite, and the brahmin community also participated in the ritual of drinking coffee; giving it their own spin with the traditional stainless steel tumbler and dabarah. “Not only did they savour the taste, but saw business potential in it and started to invest in setting up new coffee plantations across India. It contributed to their economic status, and their revenues,” she elaborates. 

Filter coffee becomes mainstream

Filter coffee soon became an integral part of the South Indian community events, as it was generously served in social gatherings, weddings, birth of a child, family events and cultural events. Women and men gathered in separate groups to meet and engage in conversations over coffee. “This drink became part of their hospitality and cultural gesture to serve filter coffee.” The act of making the drink itself became a communal effort, she says, where members contributed to the process. It took the central spotlight in these family events. In some communities serving coffee to the elders became a sign of respect and reverence.

Commercialisation and popularity in the modern day

Today, filter coffee is commercialised and available across the world at different prices, says Dr Jangda. “There are even multinational coffee chains tapping into the profitability of this commodity. However, the quality of coffee itself can vary drastically based on price points.” 

There are coffees available at phenomenally high prices, due to their quality and special origin, which some connoisseurs prefer. Indian filter coffee has become a unique selling proposition for certain coffee brands as well. 

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