Schiaparelli’s surreal fusion of kink and history kicks off Paris Couture Week

PARIS — Schiaparelli, piloted by the inventive Daniel Roseberry, inaugurated Paris Couture Week with a celebration of glamour, surrealism, and historical reverence. The collection was a vivid tableau of the house’s 1930s glory days under the late, great Elsa Schiaparelli, fused with a provocative twist that electrified the VIP audience.

Here are some highlights of spring 2024 couture shows in Paris:

SCHIARELLI

Opening with a dominatrix-inspired black PVC-style gown, complete with an Elizabethan choker, the show was a study in historic contrasts. This modern reinterpretation of the choker, blending the grandeur of yesteryear with a nod to BDSM aesthetics, showcased Roseberry’s ingenious ability to weave art and high fashion with tongue-in-cheek.

A standout piece, a 17th-century black cape with rope adornments, mirrored the kinky spikes of a BDSM slave while being set against a bejeweled neck clasp. Beyond its tantalizing exterior, this ensemble underscored Schiaparelli’s commitment to craftsmanship.

Roseberry’s tribute to the house’s founder was masterfully displayed in a pearl suit jacket ensemble, where tubular, sculptural arms redefined the human form. This piece, and others, exemplified his surreal take on classics, a hallmark of Elsa Schiaparelli’s original vision.

The show’s zenith was a dramatic black sheer lace screen top, sprawling out with intricate vein-like details, reminiscent of an insect’s wings — an embodiment of the house’s surrealist roots.

It was a stunning blend of Schiaparelli’s glamorous frivolity and exaggerated silhouettes, reimagined for a contemporary age.

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2024 collection transcended mere couture; after seasons in the creative wilderness, the brand under Roseberry now consistently challenges us with its glamorous frivolity and innovation.

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